Rambling Around New Orleans

2018 turned into an extremely trying and humbling year for us. In April, Andy underwent quadruple bypass surgery. Following that was several months of cardio rehab and recovery. I realized all the things I depended on him for. As a once very independent single Mom, it was eye-opening to realize how much I had relinquished. Not to get all morbid or anything, but when you stare a critical life-changing event in the eye, it pretty much changes you forever.

This past extended weekend we felt like we had plenty to celebrate so we decided to mark it with a weekend excursion. The planning fell to me, which is how I would want it. I have an adventurer's spirit at my core. Granted, I'm turning into a home body but when it comes to my husband or family, I'm all in to explore.

When we married, I had hoped to take a New Orleans honeymoon. Both of us loving to cook, I wanted him to enjoy the real deal Cajun-Creole food experience. I don't remember why, but we changed our minds. 

The first time I got to experience New Orleans was when my Dad took us on a family trip. 

 I was probably around 15 at the time (1978) and would have rather been with my friends than my family. (I'm in the red shirt with the hurry up and get it over with pose) So I didn't fully appreciate that experience. I remember it was a really wild town and seeing a pair of legs swinging through a window in a strip club.

The next experiences all revolved around my job. My business offered graphic design services and I brokered printing. Several opportunities came around through that association that allowed me to experience New Orleans and its amazing culture. This was when I became one of "The Ladies of the Court" at the Court of Two Sisters Restaurant. I learned during this recent visit, Flo, one of my favorite people, had passed away not long after Katrina.

That six year period was full of travel and fun. I could write a book alone on all the surrounding towns I've visited, restaurants with incredible food and a diverse group of people to experience it with during that chapter of the book of my life.

So I'm rambling. The plan to experience New Orleans with Andy began to come to fruition. He was a little apprehensive at first, then a little excited, then a little "what the heck have you gotten us into" and finally, "I had a great time." He had only one request. 

He wanted to do a swamp tour. We got to New Orleans too early to check in to the hotel and too early for the tour. Overpriced parking was our first stop. We had a couple hours to scratch the surface.

On the bank of the Mississippi, we listened to the calliope and watched boats full of tourists leave. 

We enjoyed listening to talented street performers entertain passersby with their amazing music.

 Around lunch time we dropped into Central Grocery on Decatur and enjoyed a real deal Muffuletta. 

You can find the recipe for my imitation sandwich but without that bread, it's not quite the same.

I want this to be my last supper. It's the olive salad that makes it amazing.

We stopped by Cafe Du Monde to get a beignet and a cup of that good rich French Market coffee with chickory. The line was long as expected and our time at this point was a little limited so we opted for a Bloody Mary across the street.

Back in the car and down the road we went to Jean Lafitte Swamp Tours in Marrero, LA. We checked in and they recommended we check out Jean Lafitte National Historical Preserve. We like to get out and hike and thought, "why not?" The walk-way was almost even with the swamp. Having hiked through Black Bayou a couple of years ago, I was thinking, "boy, I'm glad the gators aren't out." The lady at the visitor center said we wouldn't see any as it was too cold. Or was it?

Cypress knees were everywhere! We were told they shoot up from the root system to give the tree strength in this swampy environment. I had always assumed they were remnants of cypress trees destroyed by hurricanes.

Don't let the rise in the walk-way fool you. It wouldn't take much for a critter to get a hold of you.

We made our way back to the Swamp Tour and got our warning.

We weren't too worried. It was too cold for the gators to be out so we went on.

 Our tour guide Dave made the trip pretty interesting. He shared a lot of information about the canals, swamps, and critters calling this home. He is shown displaying the shell of an alligator snapping turtle. If you'll remember, we have two massive ones in our slough on the Elk River. He told us what to look for when eating turtle soup. Andy did add the sherry when he tried some at the Court of Two Sisters Jazz Brunch the next day. Thanks for the tip!

 

Let me introduce you to "my little friend."

 Game on Dave! You only live once and when would I get another opportunity to hold a gator?

 Mr. Grisham said, "No Way!"

 The little kids on the boat all jumped in an enjoyed holding a live gator.

 Excuse me, I thought it was too cold for gators?

 Holy Moly! And here's an 11-footer sunning on the bank!

 The eagles weren't around, but this tree held a massive nest.

After a fun day outside, we were ready to check in the Prince Conti Hotel. The hotel is located just a hop, skip and a jump from Bourbon Street and all the action.

 

The staff greeted us with champagne to celebrate our special occasion upon return. 

 Bourbon Street, here we come!

 Early in the evening and the streets are already beginning to fill up.

 If you enjoy people watching, this is the place to be. We saw some very interesting folks indeed!

 A New Orleans Second Line came rolling through while we were strolling the streets.
Handkerchiefs and parasols were twirling in the air.

A trip to New Orleans must include a visit to Marie Laveau's House of Voodoo. Marie Laveau outlived her husband and the man she lived with until her death. She bore fifteen children with only two daughters living until adulthood. She fixed the hair of the wealthy ladies of New Orleans and was well tuned into all the gossip among this society, which she used to her advantage. I highly recommend taking a tour to learn more about her storied past.

Before returning to the hotel for the night, we walked down the street to see where we would be eating Jazz Brunch at the Court of Two Sisters the next day. We entered on the back side of the restaurant through the courtyard and enjoyed a drink at the Carriageway Bar. I wanted to find my nameplate. Once I received notification that it had been placed, I had not returned to New Orleans to view it in person.

 There's just something about walking through this unique and historic district at night.

 Everything is straight up first class and traditional. Linens, finger bowls, mimosas and an amazing selection of Creole classics and hot and cold standards with live jazz music at the Jazz Brunch.

 The lemon cake was left to savor for last. Hands-down the best pecan pie in the French Quarter!

Just in case he needed a little extra, I had Andy give a rub to the Charm Gate. 

We spent the rest of the day and night taking in the architecture, street performers, a carriage ride through the French Quarter, a visit to St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 and wrapped up the evening enjoying jambalaya, red beans and rice and shrimp etouffee.

 

 There were street performers of all ages day and night. They were all very talented and I can only assume they made a pretty decent living collecting tips.

 

These two fellows, who were proud to shoot birds at all passersby, were working on their retirement fund according to the tip "trash can" they had available. They asked for and I agree with them that if you take a photo, leave them a tip. 

The only way to visit the St. Louis No. 1 cemetery is to go with a licensed tour guide. We took a one hour carriage ride that included the cemetery visit along with the highlights of the French Quarter. At $40/head it was well worth it considering most guides charged $25 to tour the cemetery. As I walked by Marie Laveau's tomb, our last to visit, (the second most poplar to Elvis Presley) both mine and Andy's cellphone batteries failed so I didn't get a picture. Coincidence?

Our tour guide Dave offered tons of New Orleans history, the good, the bad and the ugly. He shared, among other things, how the tombs, thanks to the climate, basically cremated the bodies within a year. If another family member died before that year was up, they would be storied in one of the wall tombs temporarily. At the appropriate time, deceased family member number one's ashes would be raked off the shelf and stored underneath. Deceased family member two would take its place.

We were ready for an early night after a day full of walking. I had the crab cake with fettuccini and Alfredo sauce at Oceana and crashed out for the night shortly after.

The next morning I had the Bacon and Mushroom Benedict at the Conti Cafe. Please note the over-hard poached eggs. I just can't do the super runny. Yeesh!! The service was impeccable, the coffee was perfect and the food got oohs and aahs every bite.

We saved the best for last!

 New Orleans School of Cooking, here we come!

 Poor Andy. He didn't have any idea of what he was getting into when he picked me.

 Monday we participated in the demonstration class. The hands-on might be in my future.
Joe led an almost three hour class. I have already used several of these tips.

 He prepared (and we ate), red beans and rice, gumbo, cornbread, pecan pie and pralines.

 He showed how to properly prepare a roux to add to the gumbo.
I came home and made my first successful roux and gumbo for dinner tonight!

 I successfully achieved the color stages Joe presented as he fixed a roux. Watching someone prepare it is all I needed. I learned I was too impatient when attempting it in the past. Kind of like why I don't have a picture of the gumbo. It was amazing! Joe taught us the proper way to season it and it truly made a difference. We spread a little gumbo file to let it thicken up a little, Joe's Stuff seasoning and a little green hot sauce. 

 How do you clean the praline pot? Lick it! This lady gave the correct answer and got treated.

If you follow this blog, you know I am not a baker of sweets and such. However, after this class, I successfully made a batch which I will share with my co-workers tomorrow along with Mardi Gras beads I didn't remove anything for.

 Mile high cornbread and pitchers of Abita beer were set out to serve with the red beans and rice.

And this my friends is how we rambled through New Orleans!

Here is my official to-do list before we left.

Jackson Square (700 Decatur Street)

Court of Two Sisters (613 Royal Street)
St. Louis Cathedral (615 Pere Antoine Alley)
Café Du Monde (800 Decatur Street)
Central Grocery (Decatur Street) Muffaletta
French Market (1008 N. Peters Street) Bloody Mary

Flea Market (1008 N. Peters Street)

Old United States Mint Museum (400 Esplanade Avenue)*

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar (941 Bourbon St)**
New Orleans Voodoo Museum (724 Dumaine St.)
Marie Laveau’s House of Voodoo (739 Bourbon St)
Pat O’Brien’s Piano Bar (718 St. Peter St.)
Carousel Bar (214 Royal Street) in the Hotel Monteleone
(Order the Vieux Carre Cocktail or Goody)
House of the Blues (225 Decatur Street)*
St. Louis Cemetery #1 (425 Basin Street)

New Orleans School of Cooking  (524 St. Louis St.)

Watch the ships come in

Street Performers 

*Didn't have time

**Way too sketchy after dark